Have you ever been somewhere that had an incredible, indescribable hold on you? A place where you're sure you've been before? I can't say that I believe in reincarnation in the traditional Hindu sense, I'm quite the Episcopalian in my thinking (Episcopalian aka almost a Catholic.) However, knowing that energy never dies, I have to believe that there are aspects of our souls which do pass through time, and since "time" is a human creation, who knows when anything is actually "happening" in the universe?!
All that being said, what does it have to do with Dunbeg Dreaming? Well, I've been to several places in my travels where I've had the overwhelming sensation I had been there before, in some other place and time. One example was my first trip to Rome, Italy, in 1987. I creeped out a friend I was wandering with for the day from our tour group, by never once referring to a map of the city, and yet getting us where we wanted to go with complete ease. After touring St. Peter's, we headed toward the Pantheon. I said to her, rather matter of factly, "Just follow me. I know how to get there." Off we went, and I was right. I hadn't even realized that I had done it. My friend pointed it out to me as we were wandering through the Forum and I was giving her a not-so-mini history lesson. Finally, she just stopped dead in her tracks and said, "Leigh, you are completely giving me the creeps! Stop knowing it like you were here yesterday!" Then I realized what she was talking about. Wow! Kind of creeped myself out after that. So when I went back in 2008, I thought I'd test myself to see if I still had it. Yep! As long as I was in the "old" section, I could go anywhere, know exactly where I was, and never get lost or confused. In the Forum, I had the same sense of recognition I felt 20 years earlier. Then, in order to test a little more, I ventured into the more modern sections, and I was completely lost. Ended up taking a taxi back to my hotel because I was totally disoriented, and that had nothing to do with the wine. :)
There are places in England where I've felt similar experiences, like in York, or the far north of Scotland. But the place I felt it the strongest ever was at the little Iron Age fort on the Dingle Peninsula in Ireland. It's Fort Dunbeg. That is a picture of it I'm using as my thumbnail here. I'll never forget the first time I was there. My sister, Katharine, and I were on a trip to Ireland together (2003, we think). It was my first time over, and I was loving every minute. My family history is pretty purely Irish, Scottish, English, and Welsh, so I always feel a strong connection to that part of the world. The Irish music sinks deeeep into my soul, as if I can feel it moving through my blood. I love the ancient history of the variety of peoples who inhabited Ireland, and I find it fascinating that there are no indigenous people of Ireland. Anyway, we were driving out on the Dingle Peninsula, and had seen Fort Dunbeg listed in one of the guide books, so decided to look for it. It's so small, and everything is blessedly not touristified there, so we almost drove past it. As soon as we got out of the car though, I took a deep breath of that cold, crisp, ancient sea air. As I went closer to the fort, I felt more and more "at home." I almost wanted to run to it like the Prodigal Son who hadn't been home for many years. It was an overwhelming feeling. The waves were crashing around the cliffs and rocks, the cold wind was blowing, and I have never felt more at home anywhere, at any time in my life. I walked through the doorway opening to the interior, and could just "see" all the activity and life that had been there. That fullness of soul is something so unusual. My mind felt crystal clear and at peace. I watched the waves crash, the sheep eating grass right up to the edge of the cliff, and just stood on that cliff --- thinking. I could have stayed there, watching the waves, feeling the air, etc. forever.
It's safe to say that Katharine didn't quite have the same experience. I believe her response was something like, "Yea, this is cool. Ok, it's too fucking cold! Let's go!" Not that she didn't appreciate it, but it wasn't the same. You crack me up Katharine!
In 2007, I had the priviledge of co-leading a group of students from our college in Ohio on a trip to Ireland. As my friend Meri Linn and I planned the agenda, I insisted that we make a stop at Fort Dunbeg. She was game for anything. We had a great group of kids for this trip, and it was clearly obvious on the day we did our Dingle trip. That morning is was cold, VERY windy, and light drizzle. The tour guide and bus driver had never even heard of Fort Dunbeg (and yes, they were from Ireland), and when the driver finally found it, the tour director looked at me as if I was a little crazy. It was just a little stone compound. Even worse, the wind was now GALE FORCE, with a driving rain that felt like needles!! So she says to me as I start to get up to leave the bus, "You don't actually want to go out there in this, on the cliff, do you?" Of course I do! I said that anybody who wanted to join me was welcome to, but it was optional. I just needed about 15 minutes and I'd be happy. Well, every single one of those kids went out there!! I was so proud of them! They didn't want to miss out on anything, even this little pile of stones. The wind was so strong we could barely stand up. Those kids ventured out to the cliff, climbed the rocks, and loved it! Fortunately, we didn't find out until that night just how strong the winds were, and thank goodness they were blowing inland! We didn't lose anyone off the cliff, and in the end, it was the favorite day for most of them.
So Dunbeg . . . . it's my home. Some part of me was there a very, very long time ago, and it is still part of my soul. I long for another trip back, but until then, I like to visualize the cliffs when I need to relax and think, and I'm dunbeg dreaming :)
A youtube video that someone took:
you're right I didn't have that same feeling at Dunbeg. Though I have had it at others ;)
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